Tuesday, November 18, 2014

SONOMA WINE : AGOSTON HARASZTHY and BUENA VISTA WINERY

BOOK REVIEW by MAGYAR-AMERICAN

SONOMA WINE and the Story of Buena Vista
by Charles L. Sullivan
C 2013 Boisset Family Estates  (Owner of Buena Vista Winery and financiers of this book project.)

Though there were people of many ethnic backgrounds involved in bringing a multitude of wine grape varieties and wine making to California, Agoston Haraszthy, an early Hungarian immigrant to the United States, and his Buena Vista Winery are the focus of this book that is interesting for the history it reveals without being an overly commercial advertisement for the winery.

Coming from what would be the landed gentry class of Hungarians, but without an aristocratic or noble family, Haraszthy arrived in 1840, leaving his wife behind.  He was a follower of Istvan Szechenyi in his belief in "Progress and Industry."  With an eye to business development and self promotion, he published a travelogue about his travels in American in 1844.  By 1842 his wife had arrived in pre-state Wisconsin, his first attempt at settlement. (He called himself "count".  Then they moved to California.  By 1858 he was claiming to have made 60 gallons of "Tokay" using California grapes: the result was not comparable to the Tokaji wine made in North East Hungary.  He began to plant not only the California native "Mission" grape but a number of East Coast varieties, began to sell cuttings and rooted Vines to Sonoma neighbors and relied increasingly on a Chinese labor force brought from Guangdong by Ho Po.  He ventured into raisins.

A University of California professor named Eugene Hilgard became one of the Berkeley scholars who supported Haraszthys hopes for California agriculture.  Haraszthy continued to travel and went to Europe where he bought 487 varieties of grape to be imported to California.  Of these today about 31 are well established and produce wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc.  A partial list of his buys includes some names I never heard before.  Maybe those of you who are more wine savvy have;  Azelante White, Somaylolo Blue, Kovatsy White, Valtozo Goher, Kardarka - dreg, Bogdany Dinko, Tokay Blanc, Cingadi White, Sarfeher White.  (I pride myself on selecting for my partial lists names that I'm sure are Hungarian and now I want to know more about these grapes!)

The book's second focus is the PHYLLOXERA that wiped out wineries in the United States, France - Europe - and Hungary, because this louse, called the "Great Destroyer" which caused wine root infestation and ruined crops for years is a main cause of the immigration to the United States by my own ancestors.  Unknown west of the Rockies before the 1860's it took till 1869 for French scientists working on the problem to identify the louse.

Agoston Haraszthy died in 1869 but by then he had three sons, one who also became a wine grower and maker, and his Buena Vista Winery was one of several that had great impact on the future of Calirfornia wines.  Today at the winery theatrical performances include an actor playing the "Hungarian nobleman."

What of the Buena Vista Tokaji?  There really isn't one.  The winery uses barrels from France and Hungary, without the thick mold that's on walls and ceilings in the cellars of Tokaji wineries.  They haven't given up and while there you can taste it - from imported bottles.

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

THE HUNGARIANS BY PAUL LENDVAI : WHO IS A HUNGARIAN? : MAGYAR -AMERICAN BOOK REVIEW

 
"A THOUSAND YEARS OF VICTORY IN DEFEAT"
 
This book was part of my summer reading and gave me increased understanding of my ethnic heritage.  I thought it was well thought out, well done. WHY DO I THINK OF MYSELF AS HUNGARIAN - AMERICAN when, like most people of Hungarian lineage, other ethnicities are part of the story of how I came into being? 
 
While recounting the history of the development of HUNGARY Lendvai is always asking the question WHO IS A HUNGARIAN?  I think the answer is that Hungary formed as a county when it had a NATIONAL CONSCIOUSNESS and that THOSE WHO DECLARE THEMSELVES TO BE HUNGARIAN are! 
 
It has long been a complicated question because the map of Hungary has changed but within every map of the country there has long been MANY DIFFERENT TRIBES AND ETHNIC GROUPS.  The answer isn't always about tribes who made conquest or who peaceably settled.  The answer isn't always about which magnates (or other country) is ruling the land and the people.  The development of the country that was once ruled by "estates" has depended upon an influx of people who were first invited in to populate area that had been devastated by the Turks.  Prior to that there were various ethnic settlements from prehistory on.  Some of those people who accepted the invitation were Germans from various parts of Germany and after generations of living in Hungary they spoke Hungarian as their first language, which means to me that they also THOUGHT in Hungarian, which ties into that NATIONAL CONSCIOUSNESS idea of mine. 
 
Now that idea of is very American.  For instance, on our census we are asked to identify ourselves when it comes to ethnicity.  Some people are insulted that this question is even asked on a census.  WE ARE AMERICANS.  WE HAVE CITIZENSHIP HERE.  END OF STORY.  Yet, many Americans, even when they have been here for many generations, still identify themselves as "Irish" or "Italian."   Some "White" people here are angry that the census tries to put them all in one group with so much ethnic diversity among "White" people.  Sometimes they are still cooking food like their ancestors did or still speak the language as a second language.   Over time the HUNGARIAN LANGUAGE is a great unifier.  And today if you can speak it you can qualify to be a Hungarian citizen.
 
Lendvai comes from a Hungarian Jewish heritage and in his reportage he presents the reality of Jews in Hungary before and after the Holocaust.  Many Jewish families converted to join the nobility, other's joined the nobility and remained Jewish, even though Hungary as a country emphatically became a Christian country at it's official foundation (1000 years was celebrated in 1896 though 1888 might be as good a date).  Joined is perhaps the wrong word.  They were invited to join the nobility.  They were recognized for accomplishments and wealth and granted titles and status. 
 
Over time Slovaks, Romanians, Croats, and many other ethnic groups lived in what was considered Hungary, thinking of themselves as Hungarian.  Over history, especially when the Hapsburgs were in charge, there were attempts to eliminate the learning and use of Hungarian in favor of German.  Then Hungarian became again the most used language.  For the twists and turns of history on this subject, this book explains where and how and who.  When it comes to immigration to the United States being multi-lingual, especially speaking German, was a plus for the Hungarians.  It allowed them work with the Germans who had settled in America earlier.
 
As I was reading I kept thinking that ethnic identity and ethnic pride are important but not as important as living in peace with tolerance and cooperation.  To me this is and would be a strength.  TO BE HUNGARIAN IS TO MULTIETHNIC BEFORE IMMIGRATION!  TO HAVE LIVED IN A GREAT MELTING POT OF EUROPE!
 
C 2014  Magyar American Blog  All Rights Reserved including International and Internet Rights.